Here's a quick and easy way to create a fantastic pop art from a photo.This is an alternative to the more complicated method of using the pen tool, image adjustment, clipping masks, and others. The process we're going through make you realize it's not really that hard to make a pop art afterall, which were popularized by Warhohl and Lichtenstein. 1. PREPARING THE CANVASS Open photo in Photoshop. Duplicate this twice, thus creating 3 layers, namely, Background, Background Copy, and Background Copy 2. Crop photo if needed. In this tutorial the image is reduced to 684x745 pixels from its original size. 2. CREATING THE POP ART There are 3 main applications used here : Filters,Blending Option, and Color Balancing. First, we have to turn off the uppermost layer (Background copy 2), then proceed by activating the middle layer (Background copy) which we are going to work with. Next, we are going to posterize the photo and, to do this, go to Filter> Filter Gallery>Artistic>Poster Edges... Apply default values in the dialog box that appears. Here's the the result of the application above: Now that we're through posterizing the photo, we'll make a border of the photo. To do this, click the fx icon located below your layers palette and select Blending Options.. In the dialog box that appears, click Stroke and provide the values and settings as shown below. Note that the color selected is white for the above photo. Just click the square box provided to go to the Color Picker (below). A border was created as a result as shown below. Done with the border, we'll create a glow of it by selecting Inner Glow (still with Blending Options). Below photo has now a white border with gray inner glow. Below shows the application of Color Balance and its result. Just click that small circle divided with black and white in your layers palette to prompt you to the color balance properties (RGB color adjustment). 3. FINALIZING THE RESULT Applying Halftone Color and the right blending mode creates our final image result we're expecting - a pop art work! First, activate Background copy 2. Now, go to Filter>Pixelate>Color Halftone, then set the radius to 5. Our photo will look like this...a halftone photo effect. Finally, set the mode to Soft Light.. And the expected result!
Converting a normal (RGB or Grayscale) photo into a Bitmap (halftone) image is very interesting and gives a unique and dramatic effect. Unknown to many, halftone is a popular form of digital art which can be seen in comic books, magazines, newspapers, and other media. It is characterized by dotted figures basically in black and white and gray. This tutorial is largely inspired by the works of Roy Lichtenstein, a famous pop artist.
The following guides you through a 3-step instruction to achieve the expected result which can be done so easily, even a newbie find it a ‘no sweat’ stuff.
Photo used here is Scarlett Johansson.
Next, convert grayscale into bitmap (Image>Mode>Bitmap…).Under Bitmap, you may select the default values and press Ok.
Enter a lower value if you want the effect bigger and higher if smaller (dot distribution). Voila, you have your halftone effect!
Note: Before you can proceed to the next step, convert back the image into grayscale, then to RGB.
This is the result:
View the complete tutorial at PSD Tweaks, my other blog.
With new year just around the corner, it is but timely to greet our friends and loved ones a cool poster or wallpaper via your favorite social media websites. Or, you can make a print out of it, kinda like a greeting card, and put your most lovely note into it. Ain’t that nice eh?
This tutorial shows you how to make such one, in a simple, easy-to-follow instructions below.
Step 1: Background Setting
Create a new document, about 1280×800 pixels (can be bigger for wallpaper, smaller for cards) and fill it with any solid color of your choice. This is because we are applying a chromatic color scheme here (meaning, the same color family which varies only by their lightness and darkness (e.g., hues). Just be sure that the color is bright and lively as we are about to make a new year greeting. The one i use here is almost like a burnt umber (be7032).
Step 2: Creating the rectangular shapes
There are 2 types of rectangular shapes that we will make – vertical and horizontal, with different width (of
which the former is thinner).
First off, create a new layer above the background layer. Pick the Rectangular Tool and draw your first rectangle. We will do the vertical first. Fill this with your background color. You’ll notice that as if there’s nothing changed, as a result. Don’t worry, the next step will make it visible.
Applying the layer styles.
Still on the same layer, click the fx icon below your layers palette then select Blending Options. Check Drop Shadow then input the following settings:
With the first one done, create 2 more rectangles by duplicating twice the first rectangle layer. When done, position them evenly parallel with each other using the Move Tool (refer image below).
Yay, we’re done with the vertical rectangles! What we’ll do next with these is to group it altogether and merge them. To do this, create a new layer group (name it ‘Vertical’) and drag each of the shape layer under it then Merge Group. This is how your layers palette should look by now:
For the horizontal rectangles, do the same process as with the vertical. Create a new layer under the vertical layer, draw a fatter horizontal rectangle this time, then fill it the same color as the vertical rectangles. After this, apply the layer styles, duplicate the layer twice, and you’ve completed the 3 horizontal shapes! Group them together and then Merge Group.
Step 3: Making the numbers
The numbers ca be a little bit lighter or darker, it’s all up to you. Mine is #ca8232, a little bit lighter than the first we used. Having decided for yourself what color to use, we’ll proceed in making the numeric characters.
First, create a new layer above all the other layers, then type your first number. I used the font Gill Sans MT Condensed here, size 100 pt. See below the values used for the Drop Shadow in the Blending Options (2nd figure).
Now that we’re finished with the first number, right-click that layer (‘2’ layer), then select Copy Layer Style. Click the other number layers (0, 1, 4) then apply the layer style by right-clicking the layer and selecting Paste Layer Style. Do this each of the layer.
This is how it should look by now:
You can opt for the above image now or, if not yet satisfied, you can add more layer styles like the one below which is added with Bevel and Emboss in its default values.
Step 4: The finishing touches
To complete our work, select a color again, a lighter or darker one than the previous ones. I chose lighter hue here (#eeac32).
Type ‘Happy New Year’ using a Vivaldi font, size 18. Apply Drop Shadow, Opacity to 100, check Anti-alias, Ok. Position the text using the Free transform Tool on the right side vertically. Done!
Instagram is getting more and more popular these days amid increasing smartphones and android phone users. That’s why it’s no surprise hundreds of images are uploaded everyday via Instagram application. So sad though for non-android or smartphone users that they cannot have the cool application. Well, I don’t have it either, but that’s not a problem anymore, as long as you have your PC and a Photoshop installed. So, for you all that have no Instagram like me, here is an easy tutorial to make your photo with effects like an Instagram. This is also known as Lomo (short for Lomograph) effect.
The photo above is credited to Theresa Hardy (via Vera Machado) and can be seen here.
First thing that we will do is to make the photo with higher contrast. Click the Adjustment Layer button below your layers palette and adjust the slider in the Levels dialog box, with values best for your photo. I’ve used the following settings below:
If you notice, Instagram-applied photos have the following features: high contrast colors, dreamy or blurry parts, color channels more pronounced individually, and focus is clear relative to the background, among others. Next thing that we will do here is to adjust each of the RGB color channels. To do so, click the Adjustment Layer icon again, but this time, choose the Curve… With the Curve dialog in view, apply the following settings:
Now, go back to your background layer and make a duplicate out of it. Click the Adjustment Layer and this time choose Gradient… Set the colors to black-and-transparent. Black-and-white is okay also as long as you lower the opacity. What we’re doing here actually is rendering a vignette to the photo with the black color at the bottom.
To reveal the focus of the subject (e.g., the dogs), we will apply Layer Mask by clicking the icon of it below the layers palette. Make the opacity at a low level (about 25-30%) so that you have room for adjustment and you can choose the right opacity for your picture. To do it, pick a large, soft brush and click to the center of the photo. Repeat painting till the desired effect is met. By the way, don’t forget to set your FG color to black to apply layer mask.
One of the most sought-after tutorial a Photoshop user needs to know is how to extract images, ranging from simple to the more complex one, like strands of blown hair, trees, and other images that has intricate edges. Dealing with backgrounds can be a headache also if it happens to be in different colors and hues. Flat, solid colors are the easy ones to work with, which is why most tutorials posted across the web uses this simple photos as their subject.
In this tutorial though, we will tackle the extraction work in a more detailed approach, and the use of the not-so-common Channels tool in Photoshop. Although I believe that the more advanced users of the program are very much familiar with this, especially with layer masking, and use this tool for their extraction work.
First, it’s important to note that our image is in RGB mode, and that we will be sticking in this mode throughout the course of this tutorial. If you read Part 1 of this series (or if you are already familiar with channel basics), you will recall that every RGB image contains a Red, Green and Blue channel. Let’s start by analyzing the 3 channels to determine which one will provide the best starting point for extracting the model from the photograph. Here are the greyscale representations of each channel.
Since the hair is going to be the most challenging part of the extraction, what we are really looking for is the channel where we have the best contrast between the hair and the background. The red channel would probably work, but it’s a bit lighter than is really ideal, so we’ll scratch that one.
The blue and the green channels are pretty similar in terms of the contrast between the hair and the background, so either of those would probably work. However, I think that the blue channel is probably the better option, so let’s go ahead and duplicate it. You can do this by either right-clicking and selecting Duplicate Channel from the menu, or by dragging the blue channel down to the new icon in the channels palette.
Now, with our duplicate blue channel selected, we are going to adjust the brightness and contrast. Select Image>Adjustments>Levels from the menu. For this image, I used the values below for the settings.
These numbers will vary drastically from photograph to photograph, but the basic idea is to adjust these values to the point where the background is white and most of the hair is black. The thin strands, however, should retain a certain amount of grey, as you can see in the screenshot above. Also, try to increase the contrast to the necessary minimum, since too much contrast can cause some of the finer details to vanish, and for some of the softer edges to become jagged and rasterized.
Now, the result is going pretty well. Let us enhance more the contrast by making the hair strands stand out and the background totally white. Afterwards, we’ll paint the image totally black. We will be using the Burn Tool and Paintbrush to do the blackening.
In this step, we will make a selection of what we just made. To do so, press Ctrl + click on the blue copy channel. Marching ants will be seen as a result, signifying the selection is executed. Click the RGB channel to make it active, then turn off your blue channel for now.
Next, switch back to your layers palette. Note that we have to inverse first our image before going to the next step, so go to Select>Inverse… This will result to white foreground (visible) and black background (not visible) as seen in the layer mask thumbnail that we will do next. Hence, with layer 0 (our original image) active, make a layer mask by clicking the mask icon below the layers palette. Here’s how it looks:
Create a new layer now or open an image that will serve as your new background. Drag this below your existing layer. In my case, I just made a blue gradient as my background as seen below.
Now it’s the finishing touches… Grab the Burn Tool and carefully brush away the fuzziness around the image especially the thin strands of hair. Don’t overdo it though to maintain some of the strands to its grayish state. Optionally, you can enhance the whole image by using the Curves in Image adjustments. Here is the final result :
Final Result Preview
In this tutorial, you will learn how to make someone’s face into a fruit, like a guava, in this case. Having this done, it’s fun to create your own version using your own or friends photos to amuse them. You can even make a fruit cartoon characters out of your friends if you’d like to. Cool, isn’t it? Let’s get started then…
What you will need:
2. Face Photo
Step 1 Open both the guava and face photos in Photoshop. After this, make a selection using the Lasso or Pen Tool out of the face, leaving the ears, hairs, and body behind because we don’t them (unless you opt to include it).
Step 2 Copy and paste the selected image into the guava, and then use the Free Transform Tool to resize and reposition it to fit well.
Your layers palette looks like this one upon pasting the face:
Step 4 Grab your Eraser tool (soft brush, size:60 px, opacity:30), then erase out the edges until the cut fades and no remnants of the edges are seen. After this, remove the noise to eliminate the grainy effect of the image so as to make it softer.
Now, that’s looking pretty good eh!
Step 5 Click the “Create new fill or adjustment layer” icon below your layers palette and choose Hue/Saturation… Apply the following settings:
Step 6 Back to Layer 1. Grab your Burn Tool (range:midtones, opacity:30, soft brush:30 px) and then brush over the eyebrows, eyebugs, nostrils, below the nose, and below the lips. This will give more accent to the shades and enhancing the overall look.
Step 7 Finally, pick your Blur Tool and brush out a little bit more of that grainy effect to have a smoother and cleaner look of the image. Don’t overdo it to preserve the natural look. That’s it!
* This post can also be viewed at PSD Rules.
Create a new document 600×600 pixels and fill the background with a black color, then a radial gradient (white to orange). Rename this layer as “Background”.
Make a selection out of the cattle egret below, copy and paste it into the newly-created layer, resize and reposition it using the Free Transform tool (Edit>Free Transform). Rename this layer as “Egret”.
Download macbadshoes’ watercolor brushes. Select one of the brushes of the set and paint a red (or any color of your choice) into the duplicated background layer (Background copy), then set blend mode to Overlay, Opacity and Fill to 100.
Create a new layer group and name it “Watercolor”. Switch back to Background copy layer.Use any shaped brush to paint a large watercolor orange or light red to this layer, then paint it and change its Blend Mode to Linear Light, Opacity and Fill to 80.
Under the group layer “Watercolor”, create a new layer (by default, this is Layer 1). Select a big dry brush or the one we’ve just used. Try different shapes and opacity. Paint randomly over the bird with different colors. When done, click Watercolor layer then set blend mode to Linear Light, Opacity 80.
This is how it looks now:
Merge Watercolor group layer (with the Watercolor group layer highlighted, right-click, then select Merge Group…). After this, go to Filters > Filter Gallery > Artistic > Dry Brush, set the values shown below and see how it looks.
For some finishing touches, grab a big soft brush and paint the edges of the image to make a reddish orange vignette.
Add your desired text, I’m using Parchment and Eras Light ITC here.
Finally, merge all visible layers, then apply Hue/Saturation using the Create New Fill. Set Blend Mode to Overlay.
Here’s the expected final result: