Pop Art Tutorial in Photoshop

Here's a quick and easy way to create a fantastic pop art from a photo.This is an
alternative to the more complicated method of using the pen tool, image adjustment,
clipping masks, and others.

The process we're going through make you realize it's not really that hard to make
a pop art afterall, which were popularized by Warhohl and Lichtenstein.

Open photo in Photoshop. Duplicate this twice, thus creating 3 layers, namely,
Background, Background Copy, and Background Copy 2. Crop photo if needed. In this
tutorial the image is reduced to 684x745 pixels from its original size.
There are 3 main applications used here : Filters,Blending Option, and Color 

First, we have to turn off the uppermost layer (Background copy 2), then
proceed by activating the middle layer (Background copy) which we are going
to work with.

Next, we are going to posterize the photo and, to do this, go to Filter>
Filter Gallery>Artistic>Poster Edges... Apply default values in the
dialog box that appears.

Here's the the result of the application above:
Now that we're through posterizing the photo, we'll make a border of the 
photo. To do this, click the fx icon located below your layers palette and 
select Blending Options.. 

In the dialog box that appears, click Stroke and provide the values and 
settings as shown below.

Note that the color selected is white for the above photo. Just
click the square box provided to go to the Color Picker (below).


A border was created as a result as shown below.

Done with the border, we'll create a glow of it by selecting Inner Glow (still
with Blending Options).



Below photo has now a white border with gray inner glow.

Below shows the application of Color Balance and its result. Just click that
small circle divided with black and white in your layers palette to prompt
you to the color balance properties (RGB color adjustment).



Applying Halftone Color and the right blending mode creates our final image
result we're expecting - a pop art work!

First, activate Background copy 2. Now, go to Filter>Pixelate>Color Halftone,
then set the radius to 5.


Our photo will look like this...a halftone photo effect.


Finally, set the mode to Soft Light..


And the expected result!


Continue reading

Halftone Effect

Converting a normal (RGB or Grayscale) photo into a Bitmap (halftone) image is very interesting and gives a unique and dramatic effect. Unknown to many, halftone is a popular form of digital art which can be seen in comic books, magazines, newspapers, and other media. It is characterized by dotted figures basically in black and white and gray. This tutorial is largely inspired by the works of Roy Lichtenstein, a famous pop artist.

The following guides you through a 3-step instruction to achieve the expected result which can be done so easily, even a newbie find it a ‘no sweat’ stuff.

Photo used here is Scarlett Johansson.

Open the photo you wish to edit. By default, this become your ‘Background’ layer as displayed in your layers palette.


Most probably you’re in RGB mode and we can’t effect a halftone right away. To be able to do such effect, first, we must convert our image into grayscale (Image>Mode>Grayscale…).

Next, convert grayscale into bitmap (Image>Mode>Bitmap…).Under Bitmap, you may select the default values and press Ok.

Bitmap and Halftone Screen

Bitmap and Halftone Screen

Enter a lower value if you want the effect bigger and higher if smaller (dot distribution). Voila, you have your halftone effect!

Bitmap Result

Bitmap Result

Note: Before you can proceed to the next step, convert back the image into grayscale, then to RGB.

If you wish to colorize, go on and apply Hue/Saturation. Play on the sliders to select the color you want, or, you may just check Colorize for an instant color.

This is the result:

Final Image

Final Image

2014 New Year Poster

With new year just around the corner, it is but timely to greet our friends and loved ones a cool poster or wallpaper via your favorite social media websites. Or, you can make a print out of it, kinda like a greeting card, and put your most lovely note into it. Ain’t that nice eh?

This tutorial shows you how to make such one, in a simple, easy-to-follow instructions below.



Step 1: Background Setting

Create a new document, about 1280×800 pixels (can be bigger for wallpaper, smaller for cards) and fill it with any solid color of your choice. This is because we are applying a chromatic color scheme here (meaning, the same color family which varies only by their lightness and darkness (e.g., hues). Just be sure that the color is bright and lively as we are about to make a new year greeting. The one i use here is almost like a burnt umber (be7032).


Step 2: Creating the rectangular shapes

There are 2 types of rectangular shapes that we will make – vertical and horizontal, with different width (of
which the former is thinner).

First off, create a new layer above the background layer. Pick the Rectangular Tool and draw your first rectangle. We will do the vertical first. Fill this with your background color. You’ll notice that as if there’s nothing changed, as a result. Don’t worry, the next step will make it visible.

Applying the layer styles.

Still on the same layer, click the fx icon below your layers palette then select Blending Options. Check Drop Shadow then input the following settings:


With the first one done, create 2 more rectangles by duplicating twice the first rectangle layer. When done, position them evenly parallel with each other using the Move Tool (refer image below).


Yay, we’re done with the vertical rectangles! What we’ll do next with these is to group it altogether and merge them. To do this, create a new layer group (name it ‘Vertical’) and drag each of the shape layer under it then Merge Group. This is how your layers palette should look by now:


For the horizontal rectangles, do the same process as with the vertical. Create a new layer under the vertical layer, draw a fatter horizontal rectangle this time, then fill it the same color as the vertical rectangles. After this, apply the layer styles, duplicate the layer twice, and you’ve completed the 3 horizontal shapes! Group them together and then Merge Group.



Step 3: Making the numbers

The numbers ca be a little bit lighter or darker, it’s all up to you. Mine is #ca8232, a little bit lighter than the first we used. Having decided for yourself what color to use, we’ll proceed in making the numeric characters.

First, create a new layer above all the other layers, then type your first number. I used the font Gill Sans MT Condensed here, size 100 pt. See below the values used for the Drop Shadow in the Blending Options (2nd figure).



Now that we’re finished with the first number, right-click that layer (‘2’ layer), then select Copy Layer Style. Click the other number layers (0, 1, 4) then apply the layer style by right-clicking the layer and selecting Paste Layer Style. Do this each of the layer.

This is how it should look by now:


You can opt for the above image now or, if not yet satisfied, you can add more layer styles like the one below which is added with Bevel and Emboss in its default values.



Step 4: The finishing touches

To complete our work, select a color again, a lighter or darker one than the previous ones. I chose lighter hue here (#eeac32).


Type ‘Happy New Year’ using a Vivaldi font, size 18. Apply Drop Shadow, Opacity to 100, check Anti-alias, Ok. Position the text using the Free transform Tool on the right side vertically. Done!


Image Extraction Using Channels in Photoshop

One of the most sought-after tutorial a Photoshop user needs to know is how to extract images, ranging from simple to the more complex one, like strands of blown hair, trees, and other images that has intricate edges. Dealing with backgrounds can be a headache also if it happens to be in different colors and hues. Flat, solid colors are the easy ones to work with, which is why most tutorials posted across the web uses this simple photos as their subject.

In this tutorial though, we will tackle the extraction work in a more detailed approach, and the use of the not-so-common Channels tool in Photoshop. Although I believe that the more advanced users of the program are very much familiar with this, especially with layer masking, and use this tool for their extraction work.






Step 1

First, it’s important to note that our image is in RGB mode, and that we will be sticking in this mode throughout the course of this tutorial. If you read Part 1 of this series (or if you are already familiar with channel basics), you will recall that every RGB image contains a Red, Green and Blue channel. Let’s start by analyzing the 3 channels to determine which one will provide the best starting point for extracting the model from the photograph. Here are the greyscale representations of each channel.

Red Channel

Red Channel

Green Channel

Green Channel

Blue Channel

Blue Channel

Since the hair is going to be the most challenging part of the extraction, what we are really looking for is the channel where we have the best contrast between the hair and the background. The red channel would probably work, but it’s a bit lighter than is really ideal, so we’ll scratch that one.
The blue and the green channels are pretty similar in terms of the contrast between the hair and the background, so either of those would probably work. However, I think that the blue channel is probably the better option, so let’s go ahead and duplicate it. You can do this by either right-clicking and selecting Duplicate Channel from the menu, or by dragging the blue channel down to the new icon in the channels palette.

Blue Channel Copy

Blue Channel Copy

Step 2

Now, with our duplicate blue channel selected, we are going to adjust the brightness and contrast. Select Image>Adjustments>Levels from the menu. For this image, I used the values below for the settings.
These numbers will vary drastically from photograph to photograph, but the basic idea is to adjust these values to the point where the background is white and most of the hair is black. The thin strands, however, should retain a certain amount of grey, as you can see in the screenshot above. Also, try to increase the contrast to the necessary minimum, since too much contrast can cause some of the finer details to vanish, and for some of the softer edges to become jagged and rasterized.


levels result

Now, the result is going pretty well. Let us enhance more the contrast by making the hair strands stand out and the background totally white. Afterwards, we’ll paint the image totally black. We will be using the Burn Tool and Paintbrush to do the blackening.


Step 3

In this step, we will make a selection of what we just made. To do so, press Ctrl + click on the blue copy channel. Marching ants will be seen as a result, signifying the selection is executed. Click the RGB channel to make it active, then turn off your blue channel for now.


Step 4

Next, switch back to your layers palette. Note that we have to inverse first our image before going to the next step, so go to Select>Inverse… This will result to white foreground (visible) and black background (not visible) as seen in the layer mask thumbnail that we will do next. Hence, with layer 0 (our original image) active, make a layer mask by clicking the mask icon below the layers palette. Here’s how it looks:

Layer Mask

Layer Mask

Selected image pasted into mask

Selected image pasted into mask

Step 5

Create a new layer now or open an image that will serve as your new background. Drag this below your existing layer. In my case, I just made a blue gradient as my background as seen below.

New BG

New BG

Image with new BG

Image with new BG

Step 6

Now it’s the finishing touches… Grab the Burn Tool and carefully brush away the fuzziness around the image especially the thin strands of hair. Don’t overdo it though to maintain some of the strands to its grayish state. Optionally, you can enhance the whole image by using the Curves in Image adjustments. Here is the final result :


Guava Face Photo Effect

Final Result Preview

In this tutorial, you will learn how to make someone’s face into a fruit, like a guava, in this case. Having this done, it’s fun to create your own version using your own or friends photos to amuse them. You can even make a fruit cartoon characters out of your friends if you’d like to. Cool, isn’t it? Let’s get started then…

What you will need:
1. Guava

2. Face Photo

Step 1 Open both the guava and face photos in Photoshop. After this, make a selection using the Lasso or Pen Tool out of the face, leaving the ears, hairs, and body behind because we don’t them (unless you opt to include it).

Step 2 Copy and paste the selected image into the guava, and then use the Free Transform Tool to resize and reposition it to fit well.

Your layers palette looks like this one upon pasting the face:

Step 3 Set the appropriate color balance adjustments depending on the image you use. What we’re trying to do here is to make the face color nearest to that of the guava’s.

Step 4 Grab your Eraser tool (soft brush, size:60 px, opacity:30), then erase out the edges until the cut fades and no remnants of the edges are seen. After this, remove the noise to eliminate the grainy effect of the image so as to make it softer.

Now, that’s looking pretty good eh!

Step 5 Click the “Create new fill or adjustment layer” icon below your layers palette and choose Hue/Saturation… Apply the following settings:

Step 6 Back to Layer 1. Grab your Burn Tool (range:midtones, opacity:30, soft brush:30 px) and then brush over the eyebrows, eyebugs, nostrils, below the nose, and below the lips. This will give more accent to the shades and enhancing the overall look.

Step 7 Finally, pick your Blur Tool and brush out a little bit more of that grainy effect to have a smoother and cleaner look of the image. Don’t overdo it to preserve the natural look. That’s it!

* This post can also be viewed at PSD Rules.

Colorful Image Typography


In this tutorial, we’re going to make a typographic poster from a simple photo using Photoshop techniques. I haven’t done something like this before despite the fact that I started doing typography both in GIMP and Photoshop. Filling out an image with different fonts appears so cool to me and it inspires me to do one.

The described effects look nice on portraits or any other images with good contrast and light background, but you can easily adjust the contrast and make the background lighter using the different tools and filters in Photoshop.

Step 1 : Choose your photo

In Adobe Photoshop, open your chosen image and adjust the contrast (Image>Adjustments>Brightness/Contrast…). The image used can be downloaded HERE.

Step 2 : Create various text brushes

Create a new document (File>New) in a size that’s smaller than your photo: the specifics don’t really matter. Press D to set the Foreground color to black. Use the Type tool (T) to type several different words in various fonts and sizes (in this case we used a person’s name). One at a time, draw a selection around each word with the Rectangular Marquee tool (M), and from the Edit menu, choose Define Brush Preset. Name each brush in the Brush Name dialog and click OK.

Step 3 : Selecting the shadows

Switch back to the photograph (Background layer). From the Select menu, choose Color Range. From the Select drop-down menu in the Color Range dialog, choose Shadows and click OK. (In our example, nothing in the background was selected. If parts of the background are selected in your photo, see the next step for removing those selected areas.)

Then, press Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) to copy the selected pixels onto a new layer. Press Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) to copy the selected pixels onto a new layer. Click back on the Background layer in the Layers panel to activate it.

Step 4 : Selecting the Midtones

Go back to the Select menu and choose Color Range again. From the Select drop-down menu in the Color Range dialog, choose Midtones and click OK. If (as in this example) some of the background is selected, use the Lasso tool (L) with the Option key (PC: Alt key) held down to circle the areas you don’t want selected. Then, press Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) to copy the selected pixels onto a new layer.

Step 5 : Fill the layers with black and gray

Click the Eye icon next to the Background layer in the Layers panel to hide that layer from view. Click on the midtones layer (Layer 2) and from the Edit menu choose Fill. Use 50% Gray, check the Preserve Transparency box, and click OK. Then, activate the shadow layer (Layer 1) and use the Fill command again, except this time use Black with Preserve Transparency checked. You should have a very basic portrait made from black and 50% gray.

Step 6 : Fine-tune the results and merge down layers

If necessary, show the original Background (click where the Eye icon used to be) and use the Brush tool (B) to paint with black on the shadow layer, gray on the midtones layer, or use the Eraser tool (E) to completely remove areas. (Note: For gray, click on the Foreground color swatch, enter R:128, G:128, and B:128 in the Color Picker, and click OK.) In this example, we added a little more definition to the ears by painting with gray on the midtones layer. Once you’re satisfied, click on the top layer (the shadow layer) and press Command-E (PC: Ctrl-E) to merge it with the midtones layer.

Step 7 : Adjust brush settings and apply some texts

Click the Create a New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel. Press D to set your default colors. Press Command-Delete (PC: Ctrl-Backspace) to fill the new layer with white. Choose one of your custom brushes from the Brush Picker in the Options Bar, and in the Brushes panel (Window>Brushes), click on the words “Brush Tip Shape.” Adjust the Spacing so there’s space between each word. Under Shape Dynamics, vary the size and rotation of the brush. As you paint on the white layer, experiment with the Shape Dynamics. Repeat with your other custom brushes. For now, just get some “text paint” on the layer—we’ll continue painting in a moment.

Step 8 : Copy the image

Create a new layer and drag it above the black-and-gray portrait layer. Press Command-Delete (PC: Ctrl-Backspace) to fill it with white. This will provide a white background behind our image. Hide all the layers except the black-and-gray portrait layer, and then click on that layer to make it active. Press Command-A (PC: Ctrl-A) to Select All and then Command-C (PC: Ctrl-C) to Copy.

Step 9 : Paste image into the layer mask

Show all layers and activate the layer with the painted words. Click on the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers panel to add a layer mask. Hold down Option (PC: Alt) and click on the layer mask thumbnail (this will hide the painted text and show just the mask). Press Command-V (PC: Ctrl-V) to paste the copied pixels onto the mask. Press Command-D (PC: Ctrl-D) to Deselect. Press Command-I (PC: Ctrl-I) to Invert the mask (your mask should look like a negative of the black-and-gray pixel image that you pasted).

Step 10 : Add more texts with varying brushes

Activate the painted text layer (not the mask) by clicking on the layer thumbnail, and continue painting using the different custom brushes you created. You can also continue to experiment with the brush settings for Size, Spacing, and Shape Dynamics. (Although you don’t need a pressure sensitive pen for this technique, it sure helps!)

Step 11 : Add a new layer with random texts

The painted text will only appear inside the white and gray areas of the mask. To add a bit more randomness to the portrait, add a new layer above the painted text layer. Then use the same text brushes to add a few words here and there outside the boundaries of the mask.

Step 12 : Apply Gradient

With the image with layer mask active, click the New fill icon below the layers palette then select Gradient…Choose the yellow, red, blue gradient in the selection box, click Ok. Set blend mode to Overlay.

And here’s the final result:

Cattle Egret Watercolor Effect


Step 1
Create a new document 600×600 pixels and fill the background with a black color, then a radial gradient (white to orange). Rename this layer as “Background”.

Step 2
Make a selection out of the cattle egret below, copy and paste it into the newly-created layer, resize and reposition it using the Free Transform tool (Edit>Free Transform). Rename this layer as “Egret”.

Step 3
Download macbadshoes’ watercolor brushes. Select one of the brushes of the set and paint a red (or any color of your choice) into the duplicated background layer (Background copy), then set blend mode to Overlay, Opacity and Fill to 100.

Step 4
Create a new layer group and name it “Watercolor”. Switch back to Background copy layer.Use any shaped brush to paint a large watercolor orange or light red to this layer, then paint it and change its Blend Mode to Linear Light, Opacity and Fill to 80.

Step 5
Under the group layer “Watercolor”, create a new layer (by default, this is Layer 1). Select a big dry brush or the one we’ve just used. Try different shapes and opacity. Paint randomly over the bird with different colors. When done, click Watercolor layer then set blend mode to Linear Light, Opacity 80.

This is how it looks now:

Step 6
Merge Watercolor group layer (with the Watercolor group layer highlighted, right-click, then select Merge Group…). After this, go to Filters > Filter Gallery > Artistic > Dry Brush, set the values shown below and see how it looks.

Step 7
For some finishing touches, grab a big soft brush and paint the edges of the image to make a reddish orange vignette.

Step 8
Add your desired text, I’m using Parchment and Eras Light ITC here.

Step 9
Finally, merge all visible layers, then apply Hue/Saturation using the Create New Fill. Set Blend Mode to Overlay.

Here’s the expected final result:

Mapping A Texture Into An Image

You will need two photos for this tutorial, a photo you want to apply the texture to and the texture itself. I am using the two photos below:

Or, like this one:

Step 1 : Open the photo you want to apply the texture to. First you will need to select the channel with the best image contrast. Switch over to your Channels panel located on the layer palette.

Click on the Channels name tab at the top of the group to select it. You’ll see three color channels listed – Red, Green, and Blue – along with a composite RGB channel at the top. You need to select the channel that will give you the highest amount of image contrast, the more contrast you have, the better the results you’ll achieve with your displacement map. Click on each individual channel (Red, Green, then Blue) in the Channels panel. As you click on each channel, you’ll see a black and white version of the photo appear in the document window. Each channel will give you a different black and white version depending on how prominent that color is in the photo. You need to pick the channel that gives you the best image contrast in the person’s face. For my picture I selected the green channel (as seen in the above image). This is because the red channel is too bright and the blue channel is too dark.

Step 2 : Now you will duplicate this channel. With the channel selected click on the menu icon in the top right corner of the Channels panel and select Duplicate Channel from the menu that appears.

This will bring up the Duplicate Channel dialog box. Select New for the Document option in the Destination section of the dialog box, which will open the copy of the channel as a separate Photoshop document. Name it Green Channel Duplicate.

Step 3 : Now you are going to get the document ready for the displacement map. First apply a Median Filter To The Displacement Map Image (Green Channel Duplicate). Go up to the Filter menu in the Menu Bar at the top of the screen, choose Noise, and then choose Median.

This will bring up the Median filter’s dialog box. Keep an eye on your image in the document window as you drag the Radius slider at the bottom of the dialog box. The slider determines how much detail is removed from the image. The further you drag the slider towards the right, the more detail you’ll remove. The idea is to remove as much detail from the person’s face as possible while still keeping important edges intact. I set my Radius to 5.

Click OK to exit out of the dialog box. Next, we’ll apply the Gaussian Blur filter to finish off our displacement map. Go back up to the Filter menu and this time, choose Blur, then choose Gaussian Blur. Set the following values shown in the image below:

Click OK when you’re done to exit out of the dialog box. Photoshop applies the blurring to the displacement map.

Finally, you will convert the displacement map image to the Grayscale color mode. On the menu toolbar select Image > Mode> Grayscale.

Step 4 : Now that you’ve prepared your image for use as a displacement map, you need to save it as a Photoshop .PSD file. On the menu bar select File > Save As and select .pds as the format. This brings up the Save As dialog box. Give the file a descriptive name. I’m going to name mine “displacement.psd.” Make sure you select Photoshop for the Format option so it’s saved as a .PSD file.

Step 5 : You are done with the displacement map at this point, so switch back over to your original photo (the one you’re going to apply the texture to). If you’re still seeing the image in black and white in the document window, click on the RGB channel at the top of the Channels panel to bring back the full color version of the image. The RGB channel isn’t really a channel at all, it’s simply the composite of the three individual channels and it’s what allows us to see the image in full color.

Switch back over to the Layers panel by clicking on the layers tab. Since you want to map the texture to the person’s face, you will first need to select it. Use the selection tool of your choice. I used the polygonal lasso tool.

Next you don’t want to apply the texture over the eyes so we to omit them from the selection. On the top left of the document window click the subtract from selection option.

Now drag around the eyes to select them.

Next you need to save the selection. Click on Select on the menu bar and click Save Selection.

This brings up the Save Selection dialog box. I’m going to name my selection “theRock-face”, then I’ll click OK to save the selection for later use.

Once you have saved the selection deselect your selections by holding down the Ctrl and clicking D on your keyboard.

Step 6 : Open the texture you are going to be using. You should now have your original image and the texture photo open in their own separate document windows on your screen. Make sure you have the texture photo selected by clicking on it anywhere inside its document window. Then go up to the Layer menu at the top of the screen and choose Duplicate Layer:

This brings up the Duplicate Layer dialog box (as shown above). Name the copied layer “texture” and select the original image’s document as the Destination for the copied layer so that our texture photo appears inside the original photo’s document. My original photo is named “theRock.jpg”, so I’ll select it as my destination.

Your texture should now appear in your photo document. Resize the texture as needed using the Free Transform tool (Edit> Free Transform).

Step 7 : Now you will load the selection you saved earlier. On the Select menu toolbar select Load Selection.

Photoshop actually saves selections as channels so if you switch back over to the Channels panel, you can see that your selection appears as a separate channel below the RGB channels.

Step 8 : Switch back over to the Layers panel when you’re done. You’ll see that the selection outlines have reappeared inside the document, although they may be a little hard to see over the texture:

With the selection loaded, make sure the texture layer is selected in the Layers panel (selected layers are highlighted in blue), then click on the Layer Mask icon Layer Mask at the bottom of the Layers panel. This is how your graphic should look at this stage.

Change the blend mode to the texture layer to Overlay.

Step 9 : Things are looking pretty good already at this point, but to add even more realism, we’re going to use our displacement map to fit the texture around the contours of the person’s face. Select the texture layer. To select the layer itself, click directly on the layer mask preview thumbnail.

If we apply our displacement map right now, both the contents of the layer (the texture photo) and the layer mask will be reshaped by the displacement map, and that’s because the layer contents and the layer masked are linked together. Unlink the layer from the layer mask by clicking the link between the texture and the mask. The link icon will disappear.

Step 10 : Finally, you’re ready to apply the displacement map, and you do that using Photoshop’s Displace filter. Go up to the Filter menu, choose Distort, and then choose Displace.

This opens the Displace dialog box. Click OK to accept the default horizontal and vertical scale values. You can play around with these values. The only problem is there is no preview at this step. The Horizontal Scale and Vertical Scale options determine how much impact the displacement map will have on the image. They determine how far the pixels in the image will shift horizontally and vertically.

When you click OK which will bring you up the second dialog box asking you to choose your displacement map. Navigate to where you saved the displacement map then click on the displacement map to select it and click Open. As soon as you open the displacement map, Photoshop applies it to the texture and maps the texture to the contours of the person’s face and head.

Adjust the opacity level to your liking. In this case I set it to 70.

Here is how my photo turned out:

Here’s another version with a rusty texture applied :

(Soft Light, Opacity : 75)

Water Droplets Tutorial

When the rainy season is nearing or around the corner, it’s a cool way to have a creation in tune with the weather – something wet like rain or water droplets. In this tutorial, we’ll make realistic water droplets on a maple leaf. You can have your own choice of leaf, preferably the broad ones so you have ample room to place your droplets.


Open your leaf photo into your Photoshop. A Background layer will then appear at your layers palette. Duplicate it to have your Background copy. This is optional actually but quite helpful for newbies so as to ensure there’s always a copy to return to in case of messing-up in the middle or, worst, may lost all the work.


Create a new layer (Layer>New>Layer… or click the icon before the trash icon below your layers palette). When done, select the Elliptical Marquee Tool and make a circular or elliptical shape into the leaf. Don’t bother whatever the shape created, we’ll distort that anyway in making the droplets.

Now, click the Gradient Tool and select the Line Gradient. Be sure to have your foreground and background colors be white and black. Make a gradient now to the elliptical shape you’ve created by clicking your mouse (while holding it down) from one end to the other end, like the figure below.


It’s time to make that elliptical figure into a real water droplet. To do this, first, set the Blending Mode to Overlay and Opacity to 50%;

2nd, select Drop Shadow (click the fx sign below your layers palette and select Drop Shadow) with the following settings:

3rd, Inner Shadow with the following values:

This is how it looks like now.


By applying the Liquify Filter, we’re making the droplet more realistic with uneven or random shape. You can freely make the shape you want as long as it looks natural to be a droplet. Here is the outcome after applying the filter.


To make more droplets, just follow the procedure above, but this time, the shapes had to be different in sizes and shapes.


To do this, highlight each of the droplet layer first, then choose a small white brush and click it into each of the drops. You can apply Gaussian Blur if necessary, with the appropriate radius value.


When done with all your droplets, merge all visible layers or flatten image, then save your work.

Here is the final result: